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Dress Shirt Reference

Dress Shirt Reference


Perfecting a collar dress shirt collar is no easy feat even under the best of circumstances. It is by far the most complex part of the dress shirt and one wrong decision could turn the best intentions into a dated mess. We have worked extensively with our pattern makers and tailors to ensure that you have great options. We wanted to drop a little knowledge on you to help you choose the best collar to fit your taste and lifestyle.


The dress shirt placket is the area at the center front of the dress shirt where the buttons and button holes run from the collar to the shirt’s bottom hem, known as the “tail.” The placket derives its name from the antiquated French verb “plaquer” which meant “to lay on.” Though you may not pay it much mind, the placket is a crucial element of a dress shirt’s construction because it bears the most stress from regular wear. There are a few different ways to ensure that this very important part of the shirt holds up over time.


Flannel is a twill weave made from loosely spun yarn, which leaves large amounts of air trapped in them. That provides the insulation properties for which flannel is so famous.


Cuffs – you know, the part of the sleeve that keeps it securely attached to your wrist so it doesn’t slide all over the place while you extend your arms. We think they’re important – so important in fact that we offer a few different options that we’d like to share with you. At J.J. Threads, you can create your own dress shirts online and design your perfect shirt with the cuff that best matches your personal style.

How to Measure

Measuring yourself is an easy process that takes less than 5 minutes. You will need the following: a measuring tape (the soft flexible kind) and a friendly helping hand. Please guys, no baggy clothing while being measured, in fact – it’s best done shirtless. Also, measurements should be rounded up to the nearest half. For example, 16.2 inches should be recorded as 16.5 inches and 17.7 inches should be recorded as 18 inches, etc. Don’t ever round down!


The back yoke is probably the most unsung and heroic part of the dress shirt. The yoke is the sort of triangular panel of fabric located towards the top of the back under the shirt collar. It extends from shoulder blade to shoulder blade. Its fundamental purpose is to reinforce the back of the shirt – not unlike the placket. Though we don’t often consider this, our shoulders and back see the most contact with jackets, sweaters, bags and thus the most friction of any other part of the shirt.

Made to Measure

Most guys are used to buying shirts off the rack. You know – you walk into a store, grab your size and buy it, right? Well, here’s something you may not have thought about before. Standard shirt sizing is based on a few different criteria, but in the end it’s really a game of averages. Now, as you know we offer standard sizing here at J.J. Threads, based on neck size, sleeve length and body type. However, if you’re looking for a truly perfect fit, Made to Measure is really the only way to go.